Thursday, June 4, 2009

Borders and flat flat land

Well had a good night sleep, which I think has help, feeling better today, so it was off to the border 50km to the border then 50km to Sisophon in Cambodia. I had a bit of a later start, up at 6am and off by around 6:30am stopped in at 7 eleven as I needed water and some supplies and then hit the road.
The road was pretty flat and I was making good time, so stopped for breakfast, back on the road and the rain started to come down, lucky for me it was not to heavy so carried on, made it to the border in pretty good time. At the border it was manic, trucks, cars, people with carts and all sorts.
Thai border control was easy enough, Locked my bike outside then went in and got my passport stamped and then went back and went to head through the car lane, then someone yelled at me, lucky for me I had left my passport in my pocket, as I realized this might happen that they thought I had not got my passport stamped, so after I pointed to the stamp I headed on through.
Once out of Thai border control I made my way to the Cambodian side of thing, this was completely crazy, there was no real signs on where to go or anything, I started to head one way then someone called me back over in the other direction for a health check, so that done they pointed me to visa issue office. That done with no problems but some off the Immigration guys looked like they had just walked out of one the two casinos after a all night drinking binge.
As you head out you have to ride in between two big casinos with people falling out of them. It is really a bizarre place, one you have these big Casinos and then you have these people pushing rickety old carts full of vegetables, and big trucks belching black smoke all going passed these casinos. Once through all that I stopped at a bank and got some money changed. The Thai baht I had left I got back in Riel and I also changed some travelers cheques which I got in US dollars, so now I have to work everything out in two currencies.
After this it was back on the bike and hit the roads, have to say so far they are really good, straight, flat and went I say flat I mean flat, in fact looking out across the paddy fields you can see the curvature of the earth the land is that flat. I powered out along the roads and got in behind a Tractor trailer combo. It took the guy a while to see me then once he did he started speeding up and then slowing down, the only reason he slowed down was because his trailer started rattling itself to pieces.
I trailed him for a couple of kms then turned off for some lunch, it was point and shoot time again, and managed to get some fried rice with Chicken, well I am telling myself it was chicken anyway. Not really sure, it was tasty though so that’s all that really matters. After lunch I figured it was another 20 or so km to my stop for the night.
I made it to Sisophon in good time and found a guest house it took me a while to find out if this was the town I wanted as there was no English spoken, but they do read English. So I am in Sisophon I dropped my washing off across the road with the help of a young fella I arranged to pick it up at 8pm that night.
I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and reading, after dinner I went and checked on my washing it was still all wet so have left it there till tomorrow morning, hopefully it won’t be too wet in the morning. Only have 90kms to ride tomorrow so it is a easy day or hopefully will be easy anyway.

117km and 65km rolling hills


Found food, I love these little food stalls that they have in asian countries, we need more in western countries instead of fast food restaurants. Went to bed early because I had a pretty big day the next day, it was the first time I had ridden two days in a while so I wanted lots of sleep. Sleep would have been good, first I had some kids running around outside then when they had gone to bed some people started talking and did not stop for hours. Well it seemed like hours.
After I finally got to sleep I had dreams all night, sorry Terry I lost liam in one of them, don’t worry after we got the car out of the lake where you parked it we did find him. Yep they were those sort of dreams. That was the only one I really remember. When my alarm went off at 5:30am I was not ready to get up, I managed to force myself to get up and out, stopped at the old 7 eleven for a snack as I was feeling hungry then it was off.
The kms passed by and I stopped about 8:30 for breakfast of noodle soup I had been after something with rice but that was not to be, back on the bike the kms were ticking away nicely so stopped again around 10am, this time for some more snack food. This is where my morning got interesting, this old fella was walking passed and took a fancy to my bike and came over for a chat. No English me no Thai this was going to be fun.
He started asking me about my bike tongue going at ninety miles an hour, I did a lot of nodding and trying to explain how it worked, this I must say was to the great amusement of the ladies down the road who kept throwing comments his way, which he would then yell back something and laughter would ensue. I of cause did not understand any of what they were saying. After about ½ an hour I finally made a move to head away, we shuck hands and I headed off with him watching the bike as I went.
The road had been fairly flat so far, but now the rolling hills started, I made pretty good time along this stretch, top gear down the hills and nearly top gear up them as well. Stopped for lunch at 11:30 fried rice with seafood, not sure about the sea food considering how far in land I was but it tasted pretty good. More rolling hills followed after lunch, at one point I caught a tow behind a tractor trailer which was great because it was a long hill, the guy did not seem to mind to much he waved good bye as he turned off the main road.
Saw two snakes today and ran over one of them, not on purpose, he was heading across the road so I cut between him and the grass edge, just at that moment a truck came along so the snake turned and headed back to the grass, I missed it with the bike but the trailer caught it on the way through. I think it survived but will be a bit sore tomorrow.
Also had my first close encounter with a dog, mostly they just go for the trailer but this one came for me, I managed to unclip my foot and planted a nice solid kick to the head, which I know sounds bad but it was him or me that got injured, for some reason after that it stopped chasing me. It’s friends ran along besides the bike but did not come very close and then gave up the chase.
That was really about my day, I don’t feel very enthusiastic about riding at the moment, I kinda am struggling to get back into it really. I am hoping after my spiritual awakening at the temples of Angkor I will get back into it more, it might help if I can meet up with the German guys and ride with them for a bit. Will have to see. Angkor will show me the way.

Bangkok mayhem what a ride

My alarm woke me at 5:30am I thought I should start as I mean to go on, early rides finished around lunch time. I had to do 80km today so not so hard. Easy ride to get back into it, I had planned my escape from Bangkok the night before so knew where I had to go and how to get there. Yea I planned it but really would it be that easy.
Had breakfast before I left and then it was off, it is Sunday so the roads at 6:30am were fairly quiet, Down the main drag out and off I went, stuck to the edge of the road out of the way of most of the traffic, made it to the long road before my turn off. Now I had to go down this road for about 10km then my road would be on the left and then all I had to do was follow that out. Sound easy doesn’t it. Two roads both big roads.
Had a look on the map, mine was the fourth big road along, after I reached what I thought was the fourth big road along I thought something was up, it was not the right road and the map I had is pretty basic so it does not have some of the what Thai’s would call smaller roads on it. We are talking duel carriage ways and Tri carriage ways(not sure if Tri is correct here) anyway you know what I mean. For NZ these would be main highways not just city streets.
Ended up doubling back on myself and found a one of the major roads on the map, right had miles to go, back around the other way and off I went, did manage to get a couple of tows of trucks and buses at the lights. Finally after the ten km I found a sign for my road, I still had more to go. Traffic at this stage was still fairly light.
Turned onto Ramkhamhaeng road, now I know what you thinking here, how could he ever not find that road, will I found it all 8 lanes of it, and it was busy, now the fun really began, this is what I had been waiting for. Round the corner the traffic was already starting to back up, so I put the power on, well grabbed hold of a passing truck to get up a bit of speed. Then as the truck started to brake I let go and plunged into the mass of cars. Straight up the middle of two lanes. I weaved in and out of the slow moving traffic. Following motor bikes at some points on to the pavement at other points then diving back into the traffic.
I had my sunglasses on and my bandana around my face, the smoke from the traffic is terrible, it would be horrible to be in it every day, but I was just there for one day. My head long dash through the traffic keep me up with the bikes zipping through, it was a bit difficult maneuvering the trailer around some of the gaps but I managed to make it through with only a couple of hits into buses. As soon as the traffic started moving again I would try to grab hold of a truck or bus to keep the momentum going.
The traffic was like this for a good 15km and then it started to think out as I made my way to the out skirts of Bangkok, I should point out I got squeezed out a few times with buses coming to close together while I was trying to get though. I had to slam on the brakes then I would pop out the back and cut across behind the buses to take a run at the other side. I also had about 3 or 4 cars pull out in front of me and had to slam all anchors on and then cut alongside and passed.
By the time the 15km were up the traffic had thinned and it was now a duel carriage way, I pulled over and had second breakfast of pork with soup and then came across a sign that said I had forty kms to go, so off I went. A bit further up the road I remembered I needed to check my tire pressure so much to the amusement of the service station attendants I pulled in and had my tires pumped up by one of the garage people.
It took a bit to get him to understand what pressure I wanted but once this was done we were away and laughing, much to all involved amusement. I didn’t even have to get off my bike, I rode out with lots of waves and laughter, this is what traveling is supposed to be about. The rest of the ride was just a lot of traffic firing passed me at I would hate to think what speed.
I reached Chachoengsao just after lunch so it became my mission to find a hotel, had a look on the map and there was one located towards the center of town so headed that way, road down the street to the end ok so maybe I missed it, back up the other way, nope not there anymore, time to ask a local. Now this can be good or it can be bad.
My locals for today were the people who owned the local computer gamers shop and they could speak some English, I was on a winner. They told me were the hotel was and I got them to write down the name to, I should point out here I should have got them to write it in Thai as well. Can you see whats going to happen here. That’s right the sign was in Thai. I had ridden right passed it twice, once down the street once up then street, time to ask a local again, after the third local I managed to find it and now have a good sized room, I am off soon to see I can get something to eat at one of the road side stalls and then it will be up early tomorrow for the next leg of my journey to the border.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Dee day


Today was the big day, I got up feeling pretty good even though the rain had keep me awake last night with its thunder and lightning. I had decided I would spend some money today and buy a water proof bag for my things, considering I am going into monsoon in Cambodia and well it is here in Thailand this could be a good investment.
Back on the number 47 off to Siam Square, from there it was the train towards the hospital and then a little walk, I tried to take my time in getting there but was still 1 hour early, slight apprehension about what was to come, as much as you try to not let it affect you it is still there that little bit of doubt at the back of your mind saying what if. Wish the mind would just shut up.
So had to wait around, wrote up yesterdays blog which because I am a two finger on each hand typist it takes a while. 12am appointment time came up to quick, time to get it over and done with, had to wait a whole 20 minutes for the doctor, had my blood pressure done and was outside his office, my heart started to beat a bit faster, nervous anticipation, the door open steven come on through, well here goes.
Into the office and straight on the chair, leg is bouncing up and down, doctor looks up, just have to finish this then we will have a look, Doc your killing me here. After he finishes the report for the last patient he turns to the computer and put in my number, this seems to be taking for ages, I think the adrenalin had kicked in. He flips down through my notes, you would not believe it, it was not there, yep that’s what I need at this moment. Hold on Steven I will just phone.
He does it all in Thai, I can’t even ease drop on the conversation, maybe it’s a good thing. Then he turns towards me again the slow motion kicks in, then those words I wanted to hear, all clear no problem. Thank the gods, relief washes over me, my heart that must have been doing a thousand beats a second slows down the world is back to normal, I really I was total cool throughout the whole thing. I knew I would be clear, time to go dance in the streets.
So my day had got better, it was all looking up, I can get back to exploring these crazy beautiful asia countries, with their mad roads and lots of Wats. The rest of the day was spent buying a dry bag to put all my stuff in the it was a trip back to Khaosan.
I will mention the trip back, first we all had to wait on the over bridge while they stopped the traffic for the presidents cars to go through. Then it was down to the pickup point for the 47 local bus. The bus was packed, which is not to bad unless you hit traffic, then it turns into an oven. So after a few blocks we hit traffic, the bus hardly moved for what seemed like ages. Sweet was starting to run off me, but it as good to see it was also running off the locals so I was not the only one.
After 30 minutes of not moving very far I jumped off the bus, and you know what happened all the traffic started moving again, O well I nice little walk will do you good, o did I mention I had no idea where I was. I had a compass bearing and a name of a road, I knew the bus turned somewhere down the road. Off I went, it ended up I was not really that far from where I needed to be so it was a good stretch for the legs and then back at Khaosan Road.
Back on the road tomorrow, wish me luck navigating the Bangkok roads how hard can it be. I’ll let you know soon..

Bangkok shopping


I have a day to waste, I decided that I would get a dry bag for my trailer, having 2 plastic bags to keep my things dry is a bit annoying, checked on Khaosan road the home of ripe offs and there are some for around 1800 baht, I think I can do better than that so it was off to the malls again. I had also decided to get my visa for Cambodia in Bangkok before the border. After finding the location in the lonely planet I was off on No 47 bus through the streets of Bangkok.
I would have a little walk passed the Horse racing club then, around a corner and there it should be, yes you noticed the should be didn’t you. So it was I got off the bus, probably a couple of stops to early but that did not mater I had time on my hands. When I looked on the map the turf club did not look that long but when you add in that the road I was going to cut through was closed due to construction it became an epic journey, had to walk down a whole other block. I ended up cutting through the medical school which may have taken a km off the journey.
By the time I had found my way through the Medical school my legs were a bit sore, now your all thinking but he should be fit by now, and don’t get me wrong if I was on my bike it would have been easy but walking 5 or so kms is a bit of a hike. Got to the place where the embassy should be and it had moved, so looks like Visa on the border. Still had to walk all the way back to the malls now as well. By the time the mall arrived I was ready for lunch and a sit down.
Food court 5th floor, the problem with these food courts is there are so many things to choose from, to start, do I want Thai, Loa, Cambodia or Chinese, do I want rice, noodles, it takes 10minutes just to walk passed all the stalls. I found lunch, Garlic seafood with thick noodle, as you can see it looks pretty good, and tasted so nice. I won’t go into the details but the flavors were scumsish. You know what I mean.
The body was filled with food, my legs had had a rest and I was prepared for some shopping, now girls reading this would have been in heaven, that’s if you like shopping, everything was for sale, you name it and they had it, so many floors it was easy to get lost. Up down every where I looked there were clothes, shoes designer watches. It was a nightmare. Headed to information and found the floor I needed and headed off. It only took 15 minutes to find the area and then another 5 minutes to find what I was looking for. My legs are feeling tired just writing about it.
It was cheaper in Khaosan road, which I knew it was going to be, just have to work on a better price when I get back there. I will be riding through Monsoon weather so a good dry bag I think will be important.
After about 5 hours I had had enough, yet I lasted that long, Walking the whole time, they should provide sidgways to ride around on. So it was off back to Khaosan and relaxing. The bus ride back was an exhaust fulled thing, they really need to do something about admission control here, would improve the city no end. After my big day I think I shocked the waiter at the restaurant I went to when I ordered 3 meals, just could not eat enough last night.
We had a massive thunder storm last night and my room was getting flooded by water coming in through the window so had to sort that out before bed, the storm raged for hours with colossal crashes of thunder and lightning which were pretty close on the counting scale.
I have decided I will ride to the border, so if all is clear with the docs I will be off, I think it will be a challenge to ride out of Bangkok and onto the open road, I feel the time is right for this challenge, it will also get me a bit ready for Ho Chi Min City, bring it on…

Friday, May 29, 2009

Bangkok hospital, all in a day


I had not got much planned for today, thought I might head out to one of the big shopping mall and have a look around, also had to phone the insurance and hope they had decided something. So headed out on the local bus no 17, the fumes of the car were terrible, the amount of smoke in the air is incredible, after only a few km’s it was getting to the back of my throat.
The ride was pretty quick as we raced through the traffic, thank god for the bus lanes it makes the ride nice and quick, we came across my stop in no time at all, I jumped out and wondered towards the big mall, 3 building 5 to 6 levels in each building and they sell everything, there were car show rooms with your lotus, Lamborghini etc all your top models.
I found a phone I could call the insurance from and gave them a call, Southern cross insurance how can I help, I have my claim number here, sir what is your name, steve do you want my number or what fella, the twat, good way to start now you have pissed me off, shit what a moody arse I am, anyway I have waited enough for this lot. I do realize that you have to claim back off them, it’s you think with the amount of claims they have to deal with they would be a bit more help full. I mean really is it that hard to say, sir currently we are still looking at your claim and we need more information, we can arrange appointment for you we recommend this hospital. Not with southern cross travel insurance, they don’t give you any help the useless #$@%$@#%$@.
Anyway have said my bit don’t have southern cross travel insurance and get sick they don’t help you at all. So what they want is more tests, so I took myself off to the hospital, this is where my day gets better and better. Got to the hospital, got sent to registration, 10 minutes later was taken by orderly to see a surgical doctor, Saw him and then sent to another doctor in ENT(ears nose and throat for those that don’t know). Got dropped off in the waiting room pulled my book out to read, Mr dunkin please come through.
Sat down in the next doc’s office, told him my story, getting good at telling stories. He got me to sit in the special chair that goes up and down, he had a feel of my throat and everything, then he says “it all feels fine, I think it was an infection from the sounds but just to be on the safe side we will do some needle point biopsies to be sure”. Ok so I am thinking maybe a couple of days then for that then a couple more for the results and then back on the road. Or right, sweet.
Doc “we can do that at 3pm this afternoon if you like, Ok sounds fine to me. So I was booked in for a needle point biopsy of my lymph nodes in my neck in two hours time, from arrival to this had taken 1 ½ hours. Now that is efficient. So off I went to look for food and to waste a couple of hours, in Bangkok that is easy to do.
At 3pm was back at the doc’s office and waiting, down stairs to the operating rooms, had to slip into one of those sexy robes they give you, o yes baby, everyone looks hot in them. Got taken through to pre admit after storing all my gear in a locker. The usual heart rate and blood pressure, have to say here my heart was pumping at about 70b/min, I think because I knew what was about to come.
So for those that don’t know a needle point biopsy is pretty much where they take a needle and stick it into you and extract some cells, in my case from two lymph node in my neck. Now because lymph nodes are fairly small they have to find them first, then there is a bit of local and then in the needle goes. They did my right side first so I did not get to see the monitor till the left side. I have to say it is a weird sensation looking at the monitor and watching the needle go in and out of my lymph node. Lucky for me the local was doing its job so it was not to sore.
After this it was back to recovery and clothes on and off to pay, my whole bill for the day was around 10000 baht about $500NZ and all finished in 5 hours, I have to go back on Saturday for the results then it is off to Cambodia, hopefully. Fingers crossed.
Wonder off back towards Khao san road, just walked, had to head in a north direction so headed that way, walked for about 1 hour then jumped in a Tuk tuk back, I knew I was fairly close, we started at 120 baht and settled for 50baht, it had only cost 7baht on the bus, but tuk tuks are fun. This guy was, we raced through the traffic, only had one close call and he snuck in front of a car at some lights.
Am now back at the hostel, after finding a good meal for 30 baht, it is so cheap to eat here, in fact I am heading off for some more food now, only because I can and have lost some more weight. Was only just above 63 kg, got to eat more…

Good bye Lao hello Bangkok


Left Vientiane with the clouds crying at my going, stopped in at the scandanvan Bakery for the last time to enjoy their Omelet and fresh fruit breakfast, I had been having it since my return to Vientiane, it will be a shame not having it any more. After a relaxing breakfast I mounted my bike for the 20km ride to the border and Thailand beyond. I knew I would get across well in advance of the train departure but I also did not feel like hanging around.
I took a slow ride to the border stopped off in the area Lashana was staying to see if I could see her before I left, after a fruitless search I was off on the open road again, the insurance has still not sorted me out and I can’t really carry on my travels till I know what is going to happen.
The border came up to quickly so I stopped and enjoyed the stares of amazement at me and my bike, then did the necessary paper work and headed for the friend ship bridge, it was a quite ride across with only a couple of trucks heading the other way. After this it was Thai border control and a questionnaire about my health, it seems there is some Virus around Thailand and Lao at the moment. One of the questions was about lymph nodes so I had to tick yes and the guy on the other side of the table quickly put his mask on.
I headed to the train station and brought the ticket for Bangkok and for some reason he would not sell me the ticket for my bike as well, had to show up later when the train arrived to get that. Not sure what was happening there.
I stopped outside and read my book while the local tuk tuk drives all came around to look at my bike and trailer, they were all looking how it connected up and everything with a few questions thrown my way. If you see tuk tuks in the future with trailers it was probably because of these guys.
After this I headed for the city of Nong Khai for a look around and to see if I could find my old friend the & eleven, I had to ride quite far into the city to find it but it gave me a look around. They do have a really cool fountain on the main street into Nong Khai and from the looks that’s about it. I did manage to find a internet cafĂ©, with a lot of kids I am sure should have been at school.
As I was about to leave, something happen outside, I am not sure what but when I got out there there was a guy with blood all down one side of his face and no one else, although it did seem to me that he was yelling at some other people down the road. I left them to their yelling and headed back to the train station, had a quick dinner and by now there was only an hour or so to go till the train left.
I wondered back up to the ticket counter to get a ticket for my bike off the same guy who had sold me the ticket earlier, go figure. The bike was then loaded with not too much hassle, notice the not too much there. I wished my bike well and headed for my sleeper for the night.
The rest of the journey was not to bad besides the air-con had turned the carriage arctic in the middle of the night, luckily I had learnt from last time and had some other clothes to put on even then it was still pretty cold. I am not sure how the conductors and baggage guys put up with the swelter heat and then the freezing cold all the time.
So it is not the 27th have still not heard anything from My insurance will have another day waiting around, have found a place not far off Kho San road. Thought maybe have a look around a few shopping malls and find out where the hospital is, that’s the job for today. Once I have the OK I am not going to hang around. I want to get back out there.